27th Day: Triacastela to Sarria

It’s the little things and he had reached his breaking point. He must have, to have woken every other person up in the 8 bed dormitory. The snoring must have been driving him crazy. He curled his body over the his bed to peer into the bottom bunk below and then extended his arm that held the bright screen of his mobile phone. He jabbed it in the face of the pilgrim in the bottom bunk. “Turn around! Turn around! You are snoring. Turn around!” the man said with a Germanic accent. He meant to say lay on your side, but the words didn’t come to him then. That was the first time, at 2 am. He repeated the process two hours later, at least I think he did, either that or I dreamed it.

When I awoke in the morning at 6:30 am, top bunk man was telling an American woman that he had never heard such a terrible noise and that bottom bunk man should go to the doctor. It was his first day on this Camino (he had completed three other mini 7 day Caminos starting from St. Jean Pied de Port, splitting one Camino into four). I thought that he better invest in a pair of earplugs, otherwise he would have a terrible time of it for the next 6 days.

The snoring conversation got me out of the gates early this morning. After a tostada, orange juice and coffee, I made my mind up to take the original Camino route through the forrest instead of trekking an extra 5k to see a Monestary in Samos. Yesterday,I started late and found the Camino cluttered with people. Thankfully, waking up early seemed to do the trick and the groups of 15 to 25 pilgrims were reduced to groups of 2 to 7. After a couple of kilometers, I reached a small town and stopped in what I thought was a shop in an old church, as a cross topped the roof of the building. Turns out I was half right, there was a shop but it doubled as a house, not a church.

The owner, a British man, was a bit surprised to see me since he usually doesn’t sell his postcards and artwork on Sundays, but he obliged to the stamp anyways. His house / shop was only one room – in one corner a bed with a golden brown bed sheet with stars on it from Ikea, a work desk on the far wall, a couch with a british flag pillow next to it, and a stand with his postcards to my immediate left. We chatted briefly. He completed a Camino back in 2006 and since then has been living off and on in the tiny hamlet along the Camino. He pointed to a picture frame on his work desk with a picture of a pretty brunette woman inside of it. She had randomly walked in his door in 2006 – a pilgrim along the Camino who just happened to take the road through the forrest instead of going to the Monastery in Samos. That little decision led to them living together for the last 8 years.

Looking back on Triacastela.

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A monument to a discarded boot in the first town past Triacastela.

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Home / Shop.

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The mist persisted today.

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The walk was rife with farm land.

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A cat patrols a small town from a good vantage point.

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A spider web shows dew in the morning.

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Forrest outside of Calvor.

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A young girl learns cattle herding from presumably her grandfather.

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