10th Day: Santo Damingo to Belorado

Last night Ivano and Pierre Luigi made dinner for a group of 10 us. As you may have guessed by their names, they are italian. Earlier in the evening Ivano had a run in with a rather tall, angry Austrian man. Everyone was assigned a bed during check in, however one person chose a bed that was not officially assigned to her. This started a domino effect with Kild, the 65 year old Danish man, ultimately being confronted by an angry Austrian pilgrim. He yelled at Kild to get out of his bed, producing the slip given to him at check in. Kild tried to explain to him that somebody was now in his assigned bed and they would have to move 20 people around to accommodate him. The angry Austrian man would have none of it, pointing repeatedly to his paper and saying that the bed was rightfully his. Ivano did not appreciate the tone and lack of respect the Austrian showed Kild and told him to go seek the administration if he was having a problem with the bed situation (he also said a few more things in Italian that I imagine were not so polite). The administration wasn’t sympathetic to the Austrian’s cause either. The administration was sorry about the problem they caused the Austrian, but there were still many other beds available. After huffing and puffing around the refugio for another 15 minutes looking for some mysterious pants, he ultimately left and went to stay in a hotel.

The whole scene took place 2 hours before our meal. After pasta with chile peppers, lemon and garlic chicken and some chicken sausages made by Caetano from Germany, everyone hit the sack. I woke up with a fat belly, but the energy would soon be burned off.

This morning I started walking with Rachel from New Zealand and Marcus from Australia (The English group) however they seemed to be in the mood to move quickly and I was taking my time taking photos. I met up with Ivano, Caetano, Leah (also from German) and the others from dinner last night at La Cruz de los Valientes. They were stopped because Ivano had forgotten a bag at the SantaoDomingo Refugio. La Cruz is a giant cross between Santo Domingo and the next town over, Granon. It memorializes a fight between two men, one from Santo Domingo who was a professional soldier and one from Granon, Martin Garcia, a day laborer. The fight was over a piece of land that stood between the two villages. Both municipalities claimed ownership of the land. The elders wanted to avoid an all out war so they decided that the matter could be solved by hand to hand combat between two men. Garcia beat the professional warrior, who supposedly was greased up in olive oil to slip out of his clutches. The cross stands as a monument to that fight. At the monument, Ivano headed the 3km back to Santo Domingo without his backpack to retrieve his forgotten toiletry bag; Kild carried Ivano’s backpack along with his own 3km on to Granon for him.

Although we traveled only 24 kilometers today, I was exhausted by the time we got to Belorado and immediately took an hour nap upon arrival at the Refugio. Leah’s birthday is on Saturday, however the group of ten will celebrate it tomorrow to coincide with the departure of two other who will be ending their camino on Saturday. I am calling it an early night in order to rest up for the 25 km to San Juan de Ortega and the party tomorrow.

Right outside of Santa Domingo


Snow and mountains… Even in Spain.


La Cruz de Los Valientes


Along the Camino, yellow arrows point you in the right direction


Sometimes its just the Scallop shell that let’s you know you are heading to Santiago


This gentle but skittish cat lost its eye recently and also had a lame foot. Heartbreaking stuff.


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