27th Day: Triacastela to Sarria

It’s the little things and he had reached his breaking point. He must have, to have woken every other person up in the 8 bed dormitory. The snoring must have been driving him crazy. He curled his body over the his bed to peer into the bottom bunk below and then...

26th Day: O’Cebreiro to Triacastela

They came in droves to O’Cebreiro with their button down shirts, blue jeans and ubiquitous scallop shells. Most were not alone. Most had come in groups of 3, 4, 7, some even in groups of 20. Their feet have yet to feel the stickiness of compeed, their ears to...

23rd Day: Rabanal to Molinaseca

“We need more Peregrinos, but not TourDeGrinos”, said the Hospitalero. Her hair, which she pulled back into a ponytail, was starting to gray. She didn’t hide it. Her face, which was untouched by make-up, showed that she couldn’t have been more...

22nd Day: Astorga to Rabanal

Everybody has a story. For a German pilgrim, who I had met earlier on the Meseta (not named for privacy), his story involves his wife and a wedding ring. As we sat enjoying our 9 euro Menu del Dia at a restautant in Plaza Mayor in Astorga last night, he explained that...

20th Day: Leon to Villar de Mizarife

The click-clack of scallop shells provided a bit of background noise to the first 12 kilometers of the Camino. Andrea, from Italy, who had invited me for a San Miguel last night and a espresso this morning at the bar across from the Real Basilica San Isidoro, carried...

15th Day: Hontanas to Fromista

The morning passed by quickly, even though last night didn’t. After going swiftly to sleep, I found myself awoken 45 minutes later by a bit of a commotion. An unlucky pilgrim had a bit too much to drink and had lost his dinner all over the backpack of a...

14th Day: Burgos to Hontanas

Most of my early morning walk was spent with Andrea from Italy. I met him the very first day in St. Jean Pied de Port (although it was his 31st day, as he had started his Camino in Paris). For the past 3 days, I have been walking with a group of 9 other pilgrims. That...

11th Day: Belorado to Ages

Yesterday the group of ten, all stayed overnight at the private albergue El Carminante because the Municipal Refugio is closed during the winter until April 1st. The private hostel exceeded expectations. We ate dinner for 10 euros that included a seafood Paella,...

10th Day: Santo Damingo to Belorado

Last night Ivano and Pierre Luigi made dinner for a group of 10 us. As you may have guessed by their names, they are italian. Earlier in the evening Ivano had a run in with a rather tall, angry Austrian man. Everyone was assigned a bed during check in, however one...

9th Day: Najera to Santo Domingo

Yesterday, I was in a foul mood for a combination of reasons. The weather had made its way inside of my rain-proof jacket and had infected my phone with a case of rain herpes. Whenever I turn it on, you can see little, round wet spots on the back of the display and...

8th Day: Logrono to Najera

The weight of the Camino is wearing on me. The rain beat down harder than yesterday and by the 13th kilometer, I was soaked. My boots were each at least a half pound heavier than normal. I have so much to write about today, but I have not the power or inclination to...

7th Day: Los Arcos to Logrono

Yesterday, Albert, who in my mind I refer to as the most interesting pilgrim on the Camino, dangled the keys to Casa de la Abuela (Grandmas House in English) in front of me. Albert had a mischievous grin on his face. “Normally you have to be back by 10 pm, but I...